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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.